The Faust Hotel: When Rockford Had a Grand Hotel
Greetings from Rockford, Illinois.
For years I could look out my north window and see two of downtown Rockford's great survivors: the Midway Theatre and the Faust Hotel.
I found some old postcards of the Faust on eBay one day and was struck by something unusual about them. The building in the postcards was obviously from another Rockford — a city of grand hotels, ballrooms, visiting dignitaries and men who apparently packed suits to go bowling — but the building itself was still right there outside my window.
That is one of the peculiar things about the Faust. Rockford changed around it.
The Faust didn't go anywhere.
Rockford Builds a Skyscraper
The Faust Hotel opened in 1929 at 630 East State Street, an enormous undertaking for a city that was becoming one of the Midwest's important manufacturing centers.
Behind the project was Levin Faust, a Swedish immigrant who arrived in Rockford in 1887 and went to work as a machinist at W.F. & John Barnes Company. Faust became one of the city's successful industrialists and investors, helping organize or finance businesses including Mechanics Machine Company, Rockford Drop Forge, Rockford Tool Company, Rockford Milling Machine and Estwing Manufacturing. He also served as president of the Rockford Park District board.
Then he decided Rockford needed a hotel.
Not just a hotel.
A hotel.
The completed Faust towered over East State Street and became the city's premier lodging and social destination. It contained hundreds of guest rooms, restaurants, ballrooms and lounges.
And, yes, a bowling alley.
An eight-lane bowling alley, in fact.
This was apparently an era when civilization understood that no luxury hotel was truly complete unless a guest could finish dinner, attend a formal dance, drink several cocktails and then attempt to pick up a 7-10 split without ever leaving the building.
Unfortunately for Levin Faust, he picked possibly the worst year in American history to open an enormous luxury hotel.
The Great Depression devastated the venture. Faust lost the hotel in bankruptcy in 1933 along with much of his fortune. He died three years later.
The hotel bearing his name survived him.
When Presidents Came to Rockford
For decades, if you were important and came to Rockford, there was a pretty good chance somebody was going to put you in the Faust.
Dwight D. Eisenhower stayed there.
John F. Kennedy visited the Faust during his 1960 presidential campaign.
Swedish royalty came through its doors, an especially significant event in a city whose history was so profoundly shaped by Swedish immigration. Prince Bertil of Sweden was guest of honor at a banquet there in 1938.
The Faust became more than someplace to sleep. It was where Rockford presented itself to the outside world.
This is easy to forget now.
We tend to look at old buildings as architecture. But buildings like the Faust were also stages. Weddings happened there. Business deals happened there. Conventions, banquets, dances, political events and celebrations happened there. People arrived in Rockford and formed part of their impression of the city inside that building.
For a substantial part of the twentieth century, the Faust was Rockford's living room.
The Postcards
One of my favorite old postcards shows the Faust lobby.
The funny thing is that when I used to walk past it almost every day, I always thought it looked remarkably similar.
I have occasionally wondered whether it might actually be the same carpet.
This is Rockford, so I am unwilling to rule that out without further investigation.
Other postcards show the lounges and public rooms during the hotel's glory years, when downtown Rockford was crowded with theaters, department stores, restaurants and hotels.
Just down East State stood the Midway Theatre. The Coronado was on the other side of downtown. The Register Star's tower rose beside the river. At night the Faust itself announced its presence in enormous illuminated letters high above the street.
The building wasn't merely located in downtown Rockford.
It helped define what downtown Rockford looked like.
Did JFK Bowl at the Faust?
This brings us to the important historical questions.
There really was a bowling alley inside the Faust.
John F. Kennedy really was at the Faust.
Therefore, it is technically possible that John F. Kennedy bowled at the Faust Hotel.
I have uncovered absolutely no evidence that this occurred.
It also seems unlikely that bowling would have ranked especially high among the entertainment opportunities available to John F. Kennedy in 1960.
Still, until someone produces documentary evidence establishing his whereabouts during every minute of his Rockford visit, I prefer to consider the matter unresolved.
Rockford historians deserve mysteries too.
From the Faust to Tebala Towers
The age of the grand downtown hotel eventually ended.
In 1973 the building was purchased by Rockford's Tebala Shriners and became known as Tebala Towers. Later in the decade, the former hotel was converted into apartments.
Eventually its old name returned.
Today it is the Faust Landmark, a residential building rather than a hotel.
But the old hotel is still visible everywhere once you know what you're looking at.
The building still dominates East State Street. Its brick and terra-cotta exterior still rises above downtown. And more than ninety years after it opened, the Faust remains one of the most immediately recognizable structures in Rockford.
In fact, despite generations of predictions about Rockford's future, nobody has managed to build anything taller.
The Light at the Top of the Faust
Years ago, while I was still living where I could see the Faust from my window, I noticed something one night.
A light was on in one of the uppermost rooms.
I had never seen it illuminated before.
Naturally, I imagined that some super-secret ancient society sworn to protect Rockford had convened an emergency meeting at the top of the Faust.
Perhaps they had been meeting there since 1929.
Industrialists. Newspaper publishers. Politicians. Swedish royalty. Phantom Regiment elders. Possibly a Sock Monkey representative.
They would assemble only when the city faced its greatest dangers.
The only problem was that I couldn't think of anyone currently in Rockford who would be summoned to such a meeting.
So it was probably maintenance.
But I prefer my version.
Because the Faust has earned a little mythology.
It has watched Rockford celebrate and struggle for nearly a century. It survived the Depression that destroyed the fortune of the man who built it. It watched presidents arrive and businesses disappear. It watched downtown empty out and begin filling up again. It watched theaters close, factories vanish and generations of Rockfordians come and go beneath its windows.
And it's still there.
The old postcards aren't really pictures of a vanished building.
They're pictures of a vanished Rockford surrounding a building that refused to vanish.
Right here in downtown Rockford, Illinois.





